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The Dog Ugly Mess

An Authentic Group

In the Dog Ugly Mess, we strive for authenticity, whether we’re doing Kirby Smith’s Bluegrass Campaign in 1862 or Sherman’s Bentonville Campaign of 1865. We strive to look as accurate as possible.  Here are some rules and guidelines to help you get the most accurate western Federal impression possible. This also contains a list of good sutlers to go to get the best gear possible. (Note: If you are joining the Dog Ugly Mess and are a veteran re-enactor, please go to these places to update your gear if you have not already. You will have sufficient time to update your gear, but I wish for each member to have the best impression possible.)

            Hat: For the western Federal, the first choice is a simple civilian slouch hat. In countless pictures of Federals, you see men wearing all shapes and sizes of slouch hats. The best choice though would be what is known as “Flat Top”, “Mosby”, or “Telescope” crown. Another style would be the “Bell” crown. The “Pork Pie” hat was seen some in the west. Another common style was the “Army” or “Hardee” hat. You see countless number of Federals wearing this style, but most often modified, so you will want to do the same. If you buy any style, please get the hat in a dark color, like dark brown, but black is preferred. Also, rough the hat up some. A lot of re-enactors out there say to leave slouch hats looking perfect. They need to remember though, that if they were on active campaign, then the hat was going to look worn in. I do not mean rough it up where it looks like it can not be worn, but grabbing the top front of the crown, having a side slightly pushed up, or pushing the Army hat in on itself would be ok. And no stampede straps. There is no original accounts, drawings, pictures, examples, with stampede straps.  Another choice that each member should eventually get is the 1858 model forage cap, or “Bummer”. You do see some Federals at Lookout Mountain wearing Bummers. They were also worn during parades, and other official happenings, so just in case we do a parade have one. Also, this has been beaten to death, but don’t roll the brim like a modern baseball cap. This is just like the stampede straps. If you need to roll it, push the brim up. And for a generic look, no brass, please. But a slouch is should be your number one choice. Preferred: Civilian slouch in black or dark brown, or a Hardee hat  Secondary: 1858 model Forage Cap

            Coats/Jackets: For our impressions, the coat that would work best would be the fatigue blouse or “Sack Coat”. This coat was the most commonly worn upper body garment by the Federals during the war. Over 33 million coats were produced, and out of that only 100 survive. You do see just about every Federal in the west wearing this style of coat. The question is whether a S.A. coat or J.T. Martin coat. If you have an S.A. style coat, then that would be fine, as long as it’s authentic. I prefer that we wear J.T.M. coats just because these were issued in large numbers in the east and west, while the S.A. coats were generally seen in the east, although a number did make their way out west.  Another style that would work very well would be a frock coat. In my studies of western uniforms, I notice that a number of Federals wear frock coats. This was commonly seen in just about every company, so wearing a frock to an event every once in a while would be fine. The state jacket, or “round-about”, would be a coat to wear every once in a while, especially if we were to portray troops from Ohio, Illinois, Indiana.  But I feel like these should be seen in small quantities.  Preferred: J.T. Martin Sack coat, (with S.A. alright if you already have that depot)Secondary: Frock coat, (private purchase or issue), State jacket 

            Shirts: For western troops, the best shirt would probably be the contract issue shirt. In a number of photos of western Federals, you see the men wearing contract shirts. You also read numerous accounts of troops in the west receiving this style. The colors were most often gray, tan, and blue. Another common shirt was the regulated issue shirt. About 33 million issue shirts were made during the war, and I’m sure that many did make their way out west. A shirt I would highly recommend for every re-enactor to carry is an extra civilian shirt. The colors and cut should reflect your “class” you portray while in the field. If you “are” a commoner, then a muslin shirt from Skillet Licker would work perfect. “Home-spun” shirts would not be recommended because you must remember that the country was going through the start of the industrial revolution, and one item being made would have been shirts. So a shirt your “mother” bought and “sent to you while encamped” would look perfect. These shirts should be solid plaid, as prints didn’t come around until either the very end of the war or just after the war had ended.*Note: If you have a printed shirt, just redo the button holes until you can get a better shirt. Preferred: Contract Issue shirt with an extra civilian shirt Secondary: Regulation Issue shirt with an extra civilian shirt

            Trousers: Since we do mostly mid-late war, a pair of sky blue foot pattern trousers would be the best choice. Just look at the photos of both Eastern and Western Federals.  You clearly see that they are all wearing sky blue trousers, except for a few senior officers. Again, the best choice would be J.T. Martin, as with my argument above with the sack coats. S.A. trousers would work perfectly too, so if you have a pair of them, then that would be fine. The buttons should be paper-back tin buttons because the buttons used on sutler row are farby.  As far as to whether the legs should be long or short, I would suggest getting them longer then what you normally wear. I say this for two reasons. One, if you see photos of Federals in the field, you would notice that most have their trouser legs rolled up. They did this because very often they would not have time to hem their trousers.  Two, if you have time and have the know-how, they you can “field hem” the legs yourself.  Troops very often did this while in bivouac. They don't have to be perfect, but just so long that they are rolled up and they don't look baggy, then that is fine.  Preferred: J.T. Martin sky blues with rolled or “field hemmed” cuffs  Secondary: S.A. sky blues with rolled or “field hemmed” cuffs

            Shoes/boots:  This is something that will be very important if you are planning to join the D.U.M. Since we portray infantry, we will be going a lot of marching. So if you as any veteran infantryman what is the most important piece of gear he uses, he would tell you that shoes are that item.  The first and foremost pair of footwear you should get is a pair of brogans. Preferably Jefferson brogans, but a pair of black, Federal issued shoes well oiled should do it.  I personally prefer the Jefferson because this was one of the most common issued during the war. But I must point out that only 42% of the men received Jeffersons, just a good pair of Federal brogans from one of the approved vendors should work.  You will also notice that I also put boots up there.  From my readings, as well as studying original photos, I have noticed that a number of Western Federals wore what became known as “infantry boots”. Records show that 92% of all Federal soldiers received brogans, so these boots were more than likely either sent from home or private purchase. Boots would work for a number of western events, but not all of them. Please check the event's standards, (if they have any), before going. (Note: As far as to whether you should tuck your trousers into your boots or not is all up to you.  I would suggest not because some events might not allow it.)Preferred: Jefferson (or any Federal issue) brogans Secondary: Infantry or civilian boots

            Underclothes: Here is a topic that is very vital to be comfortable while in the field. First, for your “nether regions”, I suggest getting a good quality pair of drawers.  There are two types and styles.  The first type is summer weight.  These should be made of some light weight material, such as muslin or osnaburg.  The other is winter weight, and these are very often made of canton flannel or some other heavier fabric.  The styles are military and civilian styles.  The difference, I'm not sure.  I believe civilian styles very often have ties down at the bottom of the leg cuffs.  Another important item is a good pair of socks. I suggest you having at least two pairs of socks. One pair should be military. These should be made of gray knit wool. These are not those “ragged wool” socks you see for sell on sutler row. These socks are not period, so I suggest staying away. Another pair can be either military, or civilian. With civilian socks, you can have a choice of color, but it should be rather dull colors, usually of red, blue, or white. These can be made of either cotton or wool, so there is some choice here.  Preferred: Military summer weight drawers and Military socks with a pair of civilian socks  Secondary: Military winter weight drawers, civilian drawers of either summer or winter weight.

            Muskets/Rifles:  This is something that can be dangerous. You must remember that you will be firing black powder around people, so the rifle must be clean and well maintained. I will talk more about rifle safety later, but this is the first of many talks about rifle safety.  There are really only two types of rifles that would work. During the war, the troops were issued rifles, rifle-muskets, converted muskets, state rifles, and the such. The best rifle to carry is the 1861 model .58 caliber Springfield. This was the most commonly issued rifle-musket during the war, as such it would be best to carry one. The only problem is the cost, so a lot of re-enactors carry the 1853 model .577 caliber Enfield. This was the second most commonly carried rifle-musket during the war, but most re-enactors carry this style. I feel like it is over done, but either one is fine. Please try to get them de-farbed as soon as possible. There are other styles that you can carry for certain events. One would be the 1842 model .69 caliber Springfield musket. This was very common for troops at the beginning of the war to carry this style of musket, so for early war events this style would work. Another style is the 1855 model .58 caliber Springfield. This was carried by a number of troops, and was the standard issue weapon just prior to the war, but was passed out for the 1861. A number of troops did carry this style during the war, but the top choices would be the 1853 Enfield or 1861 Springfield.  Preferred: 1853 model Enfield rifle musket or 1861 model Springfield rifle musket.  Secondary: 1842,1855, or 1863 model Springfield, 1858 model Enfield rifle, Austrian Lorenz.*(Note: All should be well maintained and defarbed. Also, always treat the weapon as if it is always loaded for safety reasons.)

            Bayonet/scabbard: When you buy your rifle, you will need to get a bayonet with it. This isn't just for the look, but also can be used as a tool while in camp. Make sure the bayonet fits the rifle properly. For the Enfield, try to stay away from India made bayonets. These bayonets are usually very cheap and will bend with slight weight. It would be best to use a bayonet made in Italy for both Springfields and Enfields. The problems with Italian bayonets are they are fatter and longer then originals. The top choice, even though it might sound sac-religious, is an original. Originals work best because they are made out of the proper steel, but they are still originals and look 140 years old. So if you think of it, there really is no good choice for bayonets. Despite what you see just about every re-enactor carrying, the 7 rivet scabbard would not work be for every event. These were not issued until March of 1863. But the 1859 model 2 rivet scabbard was seen throughout the whole war. This would be the top choice for your impression. The 7 rivet would come next, while the 8 rivet, issued in 1864, would be the last choice. Preferred: 1859 model two rivet scabbard with either an Italian or original bayonet.  Secondary: 1863 seven rivet and 1864 eight rivet scabbard with an Indian bayonet

            Haversacks: A big myth in re-enacting is that the haversack carried both food and personal items. That is just that, a myth. Think of it. Would you put a picture of a loved one, a letter from your sweetheart, a book to read, or your father's pocket watch next to a piece of greasy meat, rock-hard bread, vinegar, and other food? The top choice for your haversack would be the tarred haversack. You see most Federals carrying this style of haversack. This was seen everywhere during the Civil War, in all theaters, from '61-'65. (*Note: To be 100% authentic, the haversack should be coated with linseed oil. I do not suggest using this style. Linseed oil is highly flammable. It contains nickel, lead, arsenic, as well as other chemicals that are a potential cancer causing. I suggest getting a latex coated haversack, as well as knapsack. It looks just like linseed oil, and does the same job. (Looks like a duck, walks like a duck, talks like a duck...) Another style that was common on western troops was the cotton duck haversack. This was issued to a number of state troops, like the state jacket. This style was most often is that was issued to New England and Ohio troops. This would again work for certain impressions; just this would be good to get later. Preferred: Tarred (latex) haversack with hand sewn buttonholes, paper-backed tin buttons, and a roller buckle Secondary: Cottonduck blue striped haversack

            Knapsacks/bedroll:  This is something that should be on an individual basis. Some people like the bedroll because of its simplicity. I find the bedroll rather cumbersome, so I like the knapsack myself. The best type of knapsack you should carry is the 1855 model double-bagged knapsack. I will cover how to pack it properly in a future article. If it is properly packed, it can be rather comfortable and easy to carry. The 1855 model was the prevalent style knapsack carried by Federal soldiers during the war, so it would be best to carry.  Another choice to carry is the bedroll. There are several styles to carry the bedroll. The best style is known as the “longroll”. This is the most common and easiest to carry. It was seen throughout the war on troops who chose to carry a bedroll. I will tell you how to pack it again in the same future article. Another style is the”hobo roll”, but this style will cut into your shoulder and is rather awkward to carry. Either style is perfectly fine to carry, but I do suggest carrying the longroll because it is more period correct and is more comfortable.  Either a bedroll or a knapsack is fine to carry. It was personal choice for the troops during the war and it is personal choice to us today. I do suggest that you have an 1855 model knapsack just in case we ever do an event that requires knapsacks. Sometimes, the troops carried both, so their might be times when carrying both is perfectly fine. Just remember that this is something that is personal choice.  Preferred: 1855 model double-bag knapsack or the “longroll” bedroll  Secondary: the ”hobo roll” bedroll

            Blankets: This is something that you will need. It will come in handy at cold weather events, it will add a little extra warmth at spring and summer events at night. Besides, most people need some type of cover when they sleep. The three best choices are the Abe Thomas, Julius Jones, or Kerney/Noble blanket. The first two came in mouse brown, with black end stripes at both ends of the blanket. The third came in gray, with black end stripes as well. All three were made of the same type of course wool fabric with “filler” clothe. All three should have a black “US” sewn into the center of the blanket. Another style of blanket that would be ok to carry at certain events, like really cold events or otherwise allowed would be a civilian coverlet. This was carried by a handful of the western Federals on certain campaigns, but for the most part this should be carried only if someone allows it. The only times is it the event calls for it, or if the weather with be extremely cold. Everyone will need to have one of the following: A. Thomas, J. Jones, or K/N blanket.  You can carry two of the issue blankets if you wish, or a civilian blanket if you wish.  Preferred: one Abe Thomas, Julius Jones, or Kerney/Noble blanket Secondary: another issue blanket or a civilian blanket (if the events/weather calls for it)

            Mess kit: This will be an important item to have while in the field.  Since we are a mess, we will be cooking in a mess while in the field. This means that each person will need something to cook with.  The top choice for a plate like item would be a canteen half. This was very commonly used by troops in both armies. This worked perfectly as a plate, bowl, wash basin, frying pan, and an entrenching tool. Another item that would work would be an army issue plate. This again can be used as the others. A big choice would be a frying pan, although we should only have one or two at the most. These should be made of stamped iron with a regular handle. The “cooling handle” frying pans did not come around until the 1880s. These should also not be speckleware, again, these didn't come around until after the war. Jarnagin sells the proper type of frying pan that would work for our period.  A good cup is something that we should all have. The top choice is a plain army cup, with or without bail wire. I personally carry an issued cup with bail wire. This works well as a small kettle. If you get a plain cup, but want bail wire, here is what you do. Go to the local hardware store and buy ten inches of iron bail wire and one square nail. Mark a point on each side of the cup where you wish to have the wire loop in at. Mark it with a crayon. Take the square nail and run it through to make a hole. Then loop the wire in and with pliers squeeze the wire shut. You now have a “field” modified army cup. This will work for your impression wonderfully. This also works with “peach and tomato” cans. I am not talking about modern cans, but period ones sold by Otter Creek and Jarnagin. The only problem is that the rim might cut your lip. This style is very period correct; numerous accounts talk about men using these on campaign. The last choice would be a mucket. This is period, but how much it was used is still in question. I suggest an army cup.  Since we will be cooking, you will need eating utensils. I suggest you have at least a spoon and knife. The knife can be a pocket knife. A number of men on the marched carried only these because it lightens the load up a bit, and they felt that was all they really needed. The spoon can be either civilian or army issue. If you wish, you may also carry a period table knife and fork. The fork should be a three prong, as this was what was most common for those under the upper class. The knife should have a rounded end. I carry an original knife and fork, so if you need to see an example, please see me at an event. The “sutler” bought knife/fork/spoon set is period correct, but I feel like it is slightly overrepresented in the hobby. Yes. The sutlers sold them, yes troops carried them. If you do wish to carry one though, I will not jump on your back.  The army issued fork/knife/spoon set would work, but no one really sells an authentic set of these, so I suggest civilian utensils.  Preferred: Canteen half or army mess pan, army cup with bail wire, and a spoon and knife Secondary: stamped iron frying pan, peach or tomato can with bail wire, mucket, civilian fork and table knife, “sutler” sold fork/knife/spoon combo, army issue fork/knife/spoon combo

            Leathers: For leathers, there really is only one choice for a good mid-late war impression. This style would be the 1861 model cartridge box and cap box. The depot of the maker is rather complicated. I suggest going with a CS Storms marked box. This would work fine for most events because they feel that as long as the box is marked, it is period. With the cartridge box, I suggest you have a shoulder strap with breast plate and box plate attached. Most of the photos of western Federals show them having shoulder straps with the plates. Besides, they were to be regulated. There is a photo of troops in Comp. E of the 104th USCT that shows a number of them wearing their boxes without breastplates at least.  But we must remember that black regiments did not receive the best gear. A number of troops did wear their cartridge boxes just on their belt because they felt that putting the box with strap on was a waste of time, so for most events that would be fine. I suggest you have the strap anyway just in case we do an event that requires them. For cap box, I'd go with the shield front box. This is also known as the “square” front. While looking at a number of Federals in the field, I noticed that about 60% appear to be wearing shield front boxes. I believe these were more commonly issued because they could be produced easier. This is the style I carry. The rounded front was pretty common, so it would work for most events. I do suggest that you stay away from accoutrements marked with “E. Gaylord”, because I feel like this overrated. I do suggest that you go with CS Storms or other.  I have already covered scabbards, so I will not cover it here. The belt should be issued, but is also a personal choice. It was very common for troops to have a loop at the end of their belt. This was done to keep the belt from moving much. A lot of troops didn't like this because the loop was too small for the plate, or that it was just a nuisance. Some cut the loop off, or they just placed the plate over the loop. The brass belt keeper was very common, so if you wish to use it then that would be fine. Preferred: 1861 model .58 caliber cartridge box with a shield front cap box with shoulder strap, box plate, and breast plate, waist belt.  Secondary: Any other style box. 

            Personal items: This is something that can be interesting. I feel like this will make or break your impression. Personal items were the things that kept the men sane while at war. I am not going to lecture you about this, but I will give you a list of items that will work: Pocket knife, pipe, match safe, period book, period photo, writing items, a period newspaper, cards, a “testimonial”, a journal, dice, a jaw harp, “bones”, sewing kit or “housewife”, mirror, a period wallet, “money”, other period paper items, comb, cigar safe, an id tag, a set of brass collapsible candle sticks, a portable chess set ( the board is painted on your ground cloth), a checkers set, a good razor, a pair of period correct glasses if you wear them, a period handkerchief (not the railroad bandanas, these are post war items. Also, please use them as hankys, not a bandanas or dude-rags. The troops never did this, ever). There is a number of other personal items out there, but these are just are just a few you can carry. Most can be picked up at either antique stores, or can be bought at museums. Most sutler row “personal items” are not period correct at all, so try to avoid them. Some sutlers, like S&S, Blockade Runner, and Skillet Licker provide decent repros on some personal items, but please look at an antique store first for them. An item I think all members should have is a good bone toothbrush and a small bottle of toothpowder. The tooth powder is just baking soda, so you already have it. Everyone should have one because this is vital for our health, as well as a bar of lye or other period soap. These two items are important to keep our health up. Bone toothbrushes are better then wood because bone last longer then wood. It will not splinter and swell up like wood. I also suggest getting a period wash cloth. This can just be a 100% cotton white napkin. This is vital for cleaning, whether for personal hygiene, or for cleaning mess gear. I also suggest getting a huckabuck towel to use after cleaning one's self. It doesn’t have to be big, maybe the size of a hand towel. Huckabuck is the most period correct type of towel-like material out there. 

            I hope this list will help you get the best impression you can for your reenacting career. As I have stated before, in the Dog Uglies, we strive for authenticity and this should help you be a period correct as you possible can. If you have any questions, please feel free to e-mail me or call me. Below is the list to where to buy these items at. If the vendor sells other items besides that which they are standard for, please e-mail me what you wish to purchase from them and I will tell you whether or not it is period. Example, Blockade Runner sells some good guns, great buttons, good hand-sewn jean cloth trouser (special order), good hand-sewn jean cloth frock coat, and good personal items. But most other cloths, gear, camp items, etc. are not period correct. If you contacted me saying you wished to buy an Enfield, a few personal items, and a Federal sack coat from them, I would say yes to the gun and personal items, but no on the coat.  If you have any questions, please e-mail me at tenfed1861@yahoo.com.  

  Recommended Sutlers

Hats:

Tim Allen: www.timallenhats.com

Tim Bender: www.benderhats.com

Clearwater Hat Company: www.clearwaterhats.com

Dirty Bill Hats: www.dirtybillyhats.com

Caps:

Nick Sekela: www.skilletlicker.com

Dan Wambaugh: www.wwandcompany.com

Orchard Hill Sutlery: www.orchardhillsutlery.com (Extra-High Quality Only)

Joel Bohy: www.cjdaley.com (Sold through Daley)

Tim Sheads: www.ss-sutler.com

Coats Sack Coats:

Chuck Cantrell: www.cantrelluniforms.com

Nick Sekela: www.skilletlicker.com

Regimental Quartermaster (Campaigner Line only): www.regtqm.com

Joe Blunt: mudcatsgt@earthlink.net

Frock Coats:

Joe Blunt: mudcatsgt@earthlink.net

Lynn Bull: 919-778-7032

Chuck Cantrell: www.cantrelluniforms.com

Nick Sekela: www.skilletlicker.com

Service Jackets:

Chuck Cantrell: www.cantrelluniforms.com

Dan Wambaugh: www.wwandcompany.com

Joe Blunt: mudcatsgt@earthlink.net

Nick Sekela: www.skilletlicker.com

Shirts: Issue/Contract:

Orchard Hill (Extra-High Quality only): www.orchardhillsutlery.com

Dan Wambaugh: www.wwandcompany.com

Regimental Quartermaster (Campaigner Line only): www.regtqm.com

RegulationChuck Cantrell: www.cantrelluniforms.com

Orchard Hill (Extra High Quality and Higher only): www.orchardhillsutlery.com

Joe Blunt: mudcatsgt@earthlink.net

Shirts: Civilian:

Dan Wambaugh: www.wwandcompany.com

Nick Sekela: www.skilletlicker.com

Homespun Wares: www.homespunwares.com

Orchard Hill (Extra High Quality and Higher only): www.orchardhillsutlery.com

Chuck Cantrell: www.cantrelluniforms.com

Carter and Jasper: www.carterandjasper.com

Trousers:

Dan Wambaugh: www.wwandcompany.com

Nick Sekela: www.skilletlicker.com

Orchard Hill (Extra High Quality and Higher only): www.orchardhillsutlery.com

Chuck Cantrell: www.cantrelluniforms.com

Joe Blunt: mudcatsgt@earthlink.net

Undercloth: Drawers:

Dan Wambaugh: www.wwandcompany.com

Carter and Jasper: www.carterandjasper.com

Homespun Wares: www.homespunwares.com

Orchard Hill (Extra High Quality and Higher only): www.orchadrhillsutlery.com

Socks:

Orchard Hill (Campaigner Quality only): www.orchardhillsutlery.com

Tim Sheads: www.ss-sutler.com

Nick Sekela: www.skilletlicker.com

Carter and Jasper: www.carterandjasper.com

Suspenders (Braces)Home Spun Ware: www.homespunwares.com

Brian “Speedy” Merrick: www.cornierclothers.com

Blankets:

Tim Sheads (All Federal Blankets): www.ss-sutler.com

Orchard Hill (Kerny/Noble,Julius Jones): www.orchardhillsutlery.com

C&D Jarnagin (Kerny/Noble only): www.jarnaginco.com

Regimental Quatermaster (Campaigner Line only): www.regtqm.com

Quatermaster Woolens: members.aol.com/QMWoolens (should also take you to Matt Woodburn's site.If not,just google “Matt Woodburn,Civil War blankets”)

Weather Gear:

Ground ClothsC&D Jarnagin (the best out there): www.jarnaginco.com

Homespunwares: www.homespunwares.com

Shelther Tents:

Dan Wambaugh: www.wwandcompany.com

Haversack Depot: www.haversackdepot.com

Nick Sekela: www.skilletlicker.com

Orchard Hill (Extra High Quality and Higher only): www.orchardhillsutlery.com

Greatcoats:

Joe Blunt: mudcatsgt@earthlink.net

Nick Sekela: www.skilletlicker.com

Tim Sheads: www.ss-sutler.com

Scarves/Mitts:

Nick Sekela: www.skilletlicker.com

Carter and Jasper: www.carterandjasper.com

Orchard Hill (Extra High Quality and Higher Only): www.orchardhillsutlery.com

Firearms and Bayonets:

Blockade Runner: www.blockaderunner.com

Regimental Quatermaster: www.regtqm.com

Tim Sheads: www.ss-sutler.com

Orchard Hill: www.orchardhillsutlery.com

Cartridge Box,Cap Box, Scabbard,Belt:

Nick Duvall (long wait,very expensive,but the BEST): www.duvallleatherwork.com

Robert Serio: www.missouribootandshoe.com

Tim Welch: www.ldhaning.com

Lukas Burg:www.elkcreeksutler.com

Boots/Shoes:

Robert Serio (the best and most authentic.Good guy to talk to also): www.missouribootand shoe.com

Mattimore Harness: www.civilwarboots.com

Tim Sheads: www.ss-sutler.com

Jim Lammers: www.cedarcreeksupplydepot.com

Orchard Hill (Extra High Quality and Higher only {they sell retail for Mattimore Harness}): www.orchardhillsutlery.com

Lukas Burg: www.elkcreeksutler.com

Knapsacks:

Robert Serio: www.missouribootandshoe.com

Tim Sheads: www.ss-sutler.com

Jim Lammers: www.cedarcreeksupplydepot.com

Haversack:

Robert Serio: www.missouribootandshoe.com

Haversack Depot: www.haversackdepot.com

Tim Sheads: www.ss-sutler.com

CJ Daley: www.cjdaley.com

Canteens:

Orchard Hill (best quality.Top choice): www.orchardhillsutlery.com

C&D Jarnagin (#404 and 406 Canteen with brown or gray jean cover only): www.jarnaginco.com

Tim Sheads: www.ss-sutler.com

Nick Sekela: www.skilletlicker.com

Cups, Canteen Halves, Frying Pans, Mess Pans, Plates:

C&D Jarnagin: www.jarnaginco.com

Carter and Jasper: www.carterandjasper.com

Village Tinsmith: www.csa-dixie.com/villagetinsmith

Tin Cups,Peach Can:

C&D Jarnagin: www.jarnaginco.com

Carter and Jasper: www.carterandjasper.com

Village Tinsmith: www.csa-dixie.com/villagetinsmith

Casper and Jasper: www.capserandjasper.com

Flatware:

Tim Sheads: www.ss-sutler.com

Carter and Jasper: www.carterandjasper.com

Orchard Hill: www.orchardhillsutlery.com

C&D Jarnagin: www.jarnaginco.com***The best choice is to hunt antique stores for civilian flatware

Personal Items:

Blockade Runner (please check with me before you buy): www.blockaderunner.com

Any sutler for Toothbrush because they are all on equal level

Tim Sheads: www.ss-sutler.com

Carter and Jasper: www.carterandjasper.com

Rubben Pipes (for pipes): www.rubbenpies.com  A number of Briar Pipes are accurate for our period too.  Just make sure they have no fancy decorations.

Sullivan Press (paper items, dime novels,stationary): www.sullivanpress.com

Casper and Jasper (also sells dime novels and other period paper items): www.casperandjasper.com

***For most period pesonal items, just hunt antique stores. They have items that might not be of the period, but would still work none the less. A number of smaller items from the early 20th Cent. looked just the same as from the mid-19th Cent. Just hunt around.